TIG vs MIG vs Stick Welding: Choosing the Right Method for Your Job

Not sure whether to go with TIG, MIG, or Stick for your next project? You’re not alone. Each welding method has its place, and knowing when to use what can save you a lot of time, gear headaches, and dodgy welds.

Let’s break it down in plain terms—no jargon, no fluff—so you can pick the right one and get stuck into the job with confidence.

Why the Welding Method Matters

Welding’s not a one-size-fits-all game. What works great for one project might be a total disaster on another. I always say—pick the wrong method, and you’ll either burn through material, end up with a weak weld, or waste a heap of time trying to make it work.

So if you’re not sure what each method does best, here’s the rundown.

TIG Welding – Clean, Precise, and Slow

TIG welding (Tungsten Inert Gas) is what you go for when the job needs to be clean and controlled. You’re using a non-consumable tungsten electrode, shielding gas (usually argon), and most of the time you’re feeding filler rod with one hand while steering the torch with the other. It’s a two-handed job, plus you’re controlling heat with a foot pedal. That’s why it takes more skill.

Best for:

• Thin metals like stainless or aluminium

• Clean, detailed welds (like roll cages or visible joints)

• Precision work where the weld needs to look good and hold strong

Downsides:
It’s slower than the other methods and can be overkill for thicker stuff. You’ll also need a clean workspace—TIG doesn’t like dirty metal.

MIG Welding – Fast, Easy, and Great for Production

MIG (Metal Inert Gas) is what I’d hand to someone just getting started. It’s more like point-and-shoot. You’ve got a spool of wire feeding through the torch automatically, and it acts as both the electrode and filler. Add in shielding gas, and you’ve got a method that’s quick, consistent, and easy to learn.

Best for:

• Thicker metals and bigger jobs

• Production lines or repetitive welds

• Anyone new to welding who wants fast results

Downsides:
Not great in outdoor environments—wind blows your shielding gas away. Also not as tidy or precise as TIG, so it’s not ideal if the weld’s going to be seen up close.

Stick Welding – Rugged, Reliable, and Built for the Outdoors

Stick welding (Shielded Metal Arc Welding) is the old-school, go-anywhere method. It uses a flux-coated electrode, no shielding gas required, and it works even if the metal’s dirty or rusty. That’s why it’s still a go-to for site work and farm repairs.

Best for:

• Outdoor or remote work

• Thick materials (like steel posts, machinery, or frames)

• Welding in rough conditions—wind, rain, dust, you name it

Downsides:
You’ll get more spatter and need to chip off slag after each weld. It’s also not as pretty as TIG or as fast as MIG—but it gets the job done when nothing else will.

So Which One Should You Use?

It all depends on the job:

• Want clean, neat welds on aluminium or stainless? Go TIG.

• Need something fast, repeatable, and easy to learn? Go MIG.

• Working out on-site or fixing heavy gear? Go Stick.

The more projects you tackle, the more you’ll get a feel for which method works where. But getting the basics down now? That’s what separates a decent weld from a dodgy one.

Keen to learn TIG welding? I’ve put together some of the best online training out there—and the best part? You can jump into a free one to get started. Get The FREE Program Here

Happy welding.